Tri-X and Fuji Neopan 400 still tops for me. Since I prefer the added textual quality grain provides in my dad to day, and even some portrait shootings, I shoot non-chromogenics. When I want no grain, I shoot T400CN, period. You always strike a compromise somewhere with these films. It has a beautiful smooth tonal range I love, but cannot match T400CN for its overall grainless look. Since this is not the ONLY B&W film I use, I recently began shooting Fuji 100 Acros based on recent reviews. If you''re an amateur, I strongly suggest you consider this film as mini-insurance policy in tricky lighting situations. Try that with any non-chromogenic and kiss half your prints goodbye. 200 to 800 on the same roll with fantastic results. The best attribute to this film is its latitude. I know printers who disagreement with me, but all I have are my own prints for comparison. I personally prefer this chromogenic over Ilford XP2 Super, which I find doesn''t enlarge as cleanly to 8x10 and 11x14 as T400 does. ![]() Yet, I have two 4圆 prints on my wall printed from Rite-Aid on T400CN. If a pro has difficulty, you can bet a computerized mini-lab machine will be of no help. At 400 rating, I have heard complaints about how difficult (time consuming) it can be to find the right contrast range. And yes, I only use professional printers here in L.A. I almost always rate this emulsion at 200 - sometimes 100, depending on contrast variation of the scene. I have photos to 11x14 that look medium format to even the most discerning eye. Unless you knew what you were talking about, you would get the “you don’t know what you’re talking about, you idiot” attitude.I''ve shot almost every B&W emulsion over the years, and never found any to date that can rival T400CN for its latitude and lack of grain (being a dye based film). Back then, it could be intimidating coming to a photo lab like ours, unless you were a pro. Like most great photo labs, The Darkroom was started by photographers for photographers. Our photo lab dates back to 1976 in the San Francisco Bay Area Prints ordered from scans online generally take 2-5 business days production time. Photo Gifts – Canvas, metal, and bamboo products generally run 5-9 business day production time. Supplied Negatives/Slides – Prints and scans from previously developed films typically take 5-10 business days. This includes APS / Advantix film developing, 110 film developing and 126 film format developing, mini-Diana’s, panoramic formats and sprocket hole rolls etc.ĭamaged film (torn sprockets, overlapped frames, uneven frames) will take longer due to manual scanning. Film shot in a non-standard format will take several extra days due to manual scanning. ![]() Super Scan orders typically take 3-7 business days. You will also get your web uploads approximately 3-6 business days after your order goes into production. Occasionally production times run a bit longer, especially before or after holidays. We are located in Southern California, so mail takes 2-5 days to reach us from almost anywhere in the country. Most film developing orders are shipped back to you within 3-7 business days after they enter production. Develop your film using the three easy methods below. We’ll also mail your negatives along with optional prints, photo DVD, or USB drive with your digital images. We carefully inspect your film and color, contrast, and density adjust each frame to deliver high-quality images. While other retailers will just process your film, we take a much more detailed approach to make sure that your images turn out perfectly. ![]() ![]() Mail your film to us using our postage-paid mailer, and for as low as $12, we’ll process your film, scan your negatives, and upload your images for immediate download or sharing on Facebook, Instagram, etc. Since 1976, The Darkroom has specialized in Film Developing. Professional Film Developing for 35mm, 110, 120, C-41 Color Negative, E-6 Slide, and True Black & White.
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